St. Augustine, Florida is the oldest continuously inhabited European-established settlement in the United States, and it wears its history proudly. Known for its cobblestone streets, centuries-old architecture, and stories of Spanish explorers, St. Augustine is a place where the past feels alive in every corner. Its coastal setting along the Atlantic imbues the city with an air of mystery and charm. In this edition of Around the World in Eighty Sprays, we’ll explore the scents that define this aged city.
A Coastal Memory
St. Augustine sits on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. The air here has a distinct warmth, wrapped in the humidity of the South. As you walk along the shore near Castillo de San Marcos, the fortress that has stood since the 17th century, the scent of saltwater mixes with the briny smell of marshland and sea grass. The breeze carries a hint of sun-warmed stone from the fort, where the rough coquina walls absorb the salt air. There’s a stillness in this city, a feeling that time has slowed, and the nearby sea carries centuries of history.
Wander along St. George Street, the heart of the historic district, and you’ll notice that the air feels lighter. The scent of tropical blooms—hibiscus, bougainvillea, and the ever-present palmetto trees—floats on the breeze, blending with the salty tang of the sea. It’s a coastal scent that speaks of lazy afternoons and stories shared over time.
Stone Walls and Hidden Secrets
St. Augustine’s history is palpable! Walking through the Castillo de San Marcos or along the cobblestones of the Old City Gates, the scent of weathered stone and aged wood is unmistakable.
The old walls, built from coquina—a unique limestone made of ancient seashells—give off an earthy, mineral scent that seems to anchor you in the past. The smell of sun-baked stone and the faint aroma of dampness from the nearby Matanzas River hang in the air.
Don’t miss the Old Jail, once home to some of the city’s most notorious criminals, which adds a darker, uneasy note to the atmosphere. The smell here is more metallic, like rusted iron bars and the hint of decay from years gone by. These scents blend with the warmth of the Florida sun, creating a juxtaposition between history’s darker moments and the brightness of the present day. As you move through these landmarks, you can almost feel the stories of Spanish soldiers, settlers, and pirates etched into the air.
Florals and Orange Blossoms
One of St. Augustine’s most iconic scents is the smell of orange blossoms. In the springtime, the air is thick with the sweet, heady perfume of citrus flowers, a reminder that Florida is the land of oranges. This scent carries through the streets, mingling with the smell of palm trees and tropical plants that line the city’s avenues. It’s an unmistakable fragrance that adds a touch of Southern charm to the air.
In Flagler College’s courtyards, formerly the Ponce de León Hotel, you’ll find the air filled with the scent of flowering vines, tropical flowers, and ancient oaks. Spanish moss drips from the trees, bringing with it a subtle musty sweetness that reminds you of St. Augustine’s deep connection to its natural surroundings.
A Haunting Scent of the Past
St. Augustine is a city known for its ghostly legends, and the scent of its more mysterious side lingers in the air. On a quiet night, as you pass through Tolomato Cemetery, the air seems cooler. The narrow streets and old gravestones carry the faint scent of damp stone and aged wood. The city’s many haunted tours tell tales of spirits that still walk the streets, and the cool night air carries a feeling that the past is never truly gone.
The scent of burning incense sometimes wafts from The Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine, Florida’s oldest church. The combination of incense and candle wax creates an ethereal, otherworldly aroma that clings to the walls of the basilica. There’s something deeply reverent about this scent—an acknowledgment of both life and death, and the spirits that may still linger in this ancient city.
The Scent of St. Augustine
If St. Augustine was a fragrance, it would begin with the fresh, salty breeze of the Atlantic Ocean, blended with the warmth of sun-soaked stone and the smell of coquina walls. The middle notes would be filled with the sweet, floral aroma of orange blossoms, palmetto, and Spanish moss. Finally, the base notes would reveal the cool, damp scent of ancient stone, aged wood, and a hint of burning incense.
Whether you’re strolling the ancient streets or standing on the fort’s walls, the scent of St. Augustine is one you won’t soon forget!
